What Is Vegetable Tanned Leather? Why Is It Great for Wallets?

Vegetable tanned leather

 

Vegetable tanned leather is leather that has been processed using natural, plant-based tannins rather than synthetic chemicals. This traditional tanning method has been around for centuries and involves soaking the leather in a tanning solution derived from various vegetable sources, such as tree bark, leaves, and fruits.

How is Vegetable Tanned Leather Made?

The process of vegetable tanning is a long and laborious one. It begins with the selection of hides that are free from blemishes, scars, and other imperfections. The subsequent steps typically include: 

Curing and Soaking

The hides are first treated to prevent decomposition. This is usually done by adding salt (non-iodized salt) to draw out moisture and preserve them. 

After salting, the hides are soaked in water to get rid of the salt and rehydrate them. This soaking process can take anywhere from a few hours to a few days, depending on the hide's condition and the tannery's methods.

Liming and Fleshing

After soaking, the hides go through a process called liming. In this step, the hides are treated with a lime solution to loosen the hair and other unwanted materials. 

Next, the hides are put through a fleshing machine, which removes the hair, fat, and other tissues. Liming also helps to open up the collagen fibers in the hides, making them more receptive to tanning agents.

Deliming and Bating

Next, the hides are delimed to remove lime and alkali residues using a weak acid solution, bringing the pH back to a neutral level. 

Following deliming, bating agents (enzymes) are used to soften the hide and remove remaining proteins, ensuring the hides are clean and pliable for tanning.

Tanning with Natural Tannins

Vegetable tanning uses natural tannins from sources like oak bark, chestnut, and quebracho. The hides are immersed in tannin solutions for several weeks to months. 

The tannins bond with the collagen fibers, transforming the raw hide into durable leather. The duration depends on the desired characteristics of the final product.

Dyeing and Conditioning

After tanning, the leather is dyed to achieve the desired color, often using natural dyes to maintain the organic integrity of vegetable-tanned leather. 

Dyeing can be done by hand or machine to ensure deep color penetration. The leather is then conditioned with natural oils and fats to enhance flexibility, suppleness, and water resistance.

Drying and Finishing

The dyed and conditioned leather is carefully dried using methods like air drying, vacuum drying, or hanging in controlled environments. Proper drying prevents the leather from becoming too stiff or developing unwanted textures.

Finally, the leather undergoes finishing, which includes buffing, polishing, and applying finishing agents to protect the surface and enhance appearance. The finishing touches vary depending on the intended use and desired look of the leather.

Differences Between Animal Vs Vegetable Tanned Leather

The following are some key differences between vegetable and animal tanned leather.

Feature Animal Tanned Leather Vegetable Tanned Leather
Tanning Agent Uses chemicals like chromium salts Uses natural tannins from plants
Environmental Impact High, due to the use of toxic chemicals Low, as it uses natural and biodegradable substances
Sustainability Less sustainable due to chemical waste More sustainable, avoids harmful chemicals, and is eco-friendly
Hypoallergenic Can cause allergies due to chemicals Made from natural materials, less likely to cause allergies

 

What Are the Perks of a Vegetable Tanned Leather Wallet?

Close-up of a brown leather bifold wallet on a wooden surface, with two more leather wallets in the background

Built to Last

A vegetable-tanned leather wallet can handle the daily grind. This type of leather is tough and stands up to wear and tear. 

Plus, it gets better with age, developing a rich, unique patina that adds character. So, you’re not just buying a wallet; you’re investing in something that will last for years to come.

Eco-Friendly Choice

The tanning process for these wallets uses natural materials like tree bark and leaves, making it much less harmful to the environment than chemical tanning. 

By choosing this type of wallet, you’re supporting sustainable practices and doing your bit for the planet. 

One-of-a-Kind Look

Each wallet has slight differences in color and texture, making yours truly unique. Plus, this leather is great for customization. Over time, it develops a patina that reflects your personal use, so your wallet ends up being a true reflection of you.

Gentle on the Skin

Free from the nasty chemicals often used in other tanning processes, vegetable-tanned leather is hypoallergenic and gentle on your skin. If you’re all about natural products and avoiding irritants, this wallet is a perfect choice for you.

Handcrafted Quality

These wallets are usually made by skilled artisans who take pride in their craftsmanship. The tanning process is more involved and requires expertise, so you’re likely getting a high-quality, handmade product. 

This attention to detail means your wallet isn’t just a functional item but also a piece of craftsmanship to be proud of.

Ages Gracefully

Unlike synthetic leathers that crack and fade, vegetable-tanned leather ages beautifully, developing a rich patina that tells a story. Each mark and scratch adds to its character, making it uniquely yours. The more you use it, the better it looks.

Easy to Repair

If your favorite wallet gets damaged, vegetable-tanned leather makes it easier to repair. 

You can restore and recondition it, meaning your wallet can stick with you for years. This saves you money and reduces waste, making it a practical and sustainable choice.

Types of Vegetable Tanned Leather Wallets

Vegetable-tanned leather wallets come in various styles and designs, and the following are some of the most common: 

  • Bifold Wallets: Classic and functional, bifold wallets fold in half and provide ample space for cash, cards, and IDs. 
  • Trifold Wallets: Trifold wallets offer more storage, folding into three sections for additional space. Ideal for those needing extra compartments while maintaining a compact size.
  • Minimalist Wallets: Designed for those who carry only the essentials, minimalist wallets are slim and lightweight. They feature a few card slots and a money clip or small cash pocket.
  • Cardholders: Perfect for those who primarily carry cards, cardholders are small and compact, designed to hold a few cards and sometimes a bit of cash.
  • Long Wallets: Also known as coat wallets, long wallets are elongated to fit into the inner pocket of a jacket or coat, offering ample space for cash, cards, and a checkbook.
  • Coin Wallets: Coin wallets securely hold coins along with cards and cash, typically featuring a snap or zipper closure for added security.
  • Travel Wallets: Travel wallets are larger and offer multiple compartments for passports, tickets, cards, and cash. They are designed for frequent travelers who need to keep their documents organized and accessible.

How to Care and Maintain Your Vegetable Tanned Leather Wallet

Vegetable-tanned leather needs some TLC to stay supple and attractive. Here are some great tips on how you can keep it in mint condition: 

  • Keep it dry: Veg-tanned leather absorbs water easily, which can cause staining and warping. Avoid getting your wallet drenched, and blot up spills immediately with a clean, absorbent cloth. Let it air-dry naturally away from direct heat sources.
  • Minimize sun exposure: While sunlight can add a nice tan to your wallet, too much sun exposure can dry out the leather and make it crack. Keep your wallet out of direct sunlight for extended periods.
  • Clean with care: Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive materials that can damage the leather. For light cleaning, use a soft brush to remove dust and debris. For occasional deeper cleaning, you can use a damp cloth with a mild saddle soap solution. Always test the cleaning method on an inconspicuous area first.
  • Condition regularly: To maintain suppleness and prevent cracks, use a leather conditioner designed for vegetable-tanned leather. Apply a small amount with a soft cloth and buff it in gently. Start with a pea-sized amount and add more if needed. Be sure the conditioner is completely dry before using your wallet again.
  • Store it right: When not in use, store your wallet in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and humidity.

Final Thoughts

Handcrafted by skilled artisans, vegetable-tanned leather wallets offer a unique blend of durability and timeless style. They're built to last and develop a beautiful patina over time, reflecting your personal use. 

These wallets are hypoallergenic and gentle on the skin, making them a great choice for those with sensitivities. With proper care, a vegetable-tanned leather wallet will age gracefully, becoming a cherished accessory you'll be proud to own for years to come.


Ernie Contreras has been crafting leather for 25 years. Known for making beautiful wallets, belts, and custom pieces, Ernie also has a reputation for making personalized wallets. Many would say he raised the bar for leather makers. People everywhere love his creations because they are built to last, look amazing, and make a perfect gift. Anyone can learn the craft of making leather accessories, but very few do so as an art form, like Ernie.